Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation is the discolouration and abnormal darkening of the skin. It appears as darkened patches or spots on the skin that make it look uneven. It is a very common skin condition which affects skins of all colours and typically appears on areas of the skin that are regularly exposed to the sun, e.g. hands and face. There are three main types of hyperpigmentation:
- Sun exposure
- Hormones
- Post inflammatory responses
Sun exposure is the main cause of hyperpigmentation. When our skin is exposed to the sun's harsh UV rays our production of melanin is triggered. We can see results of melanin as that suntan, that is so heavily desired by many. Melanin acts as our skin's natural sunscreen. It protects us from the harmful rays. However when our skin is exposed to too much of the harsh UV rays then this process is disrupted, causing hyperpigmentation.
Sunspots will start to develop on our skin as small, darkened patches. They usually appear in areas such as the face, neck, decolletage and hands. Once dark spots have already developed then continuous sun exposure can also exacerbate the issue by making them appear even darker.
Hormonal changes is another cause of hyperpigmentation. When we go through stages such as pregnancy or menopause, then these hormones can stimulate our melanocyte cells to produce excess melanin. This is known as melasma.
Melasma can usually be found on the face including the forehead, cheeks, upper lip and chin. This type of hyperpigmenation is often hereditary and usually occurs during pregnancy.
Compared to sun spots, melasma usually appears as larger patches of hyperpigmentation. Studies show that our female sex hormones; estrogen and progesterone can stimulate the overproduction of melanin when skin is exposed to the sun. This process occurs in 10 - 15% of pregnant women and in 10 - 25% of women on The Pill.
Post inflammatory pigmentation is a type of hyperpigmentation that can affect the face or the body. It appears as flat spots of discolouration. This type of pigmentation is susceptible in all skin types, however it is more prevalent in darker skin types.
When our skin becomes inflamed as a result of an injury, rash or blemish this inflammation triggers our melanocyte cells to release excessive pigment. The more inflammation there is, the more obvious the area of discoloration will be. Which is why picking pimples can make the skin condition worse.
How is hyperpigmentation formed?
In the bottom layer of our skin's epidermis is the melanocyte cells. These cells are responsible for producing melanin (skin colour). When these cells are overworked or put under lots of stress; e.g too much UV exposure or pimping picking, it can trigger our tyrosinase enzymes. These enzymes are responsible for depositing melanin (colour) into our keratinocytes (skin cells).
What you need to treat hyperpigmentation
- Increasing our cell turnover
By increasing the turnover rate of cells with topical ingredients such as AHA's and Retinol, healthy cells can be encouraged to be brought to the surface of the skin more efficiently. Ideally, allowing the pigmented cells to slough away.
- Inhibiting tyrosinase production
Tyrosinase inhibitors work to block the enzyme tyrosinase that is needed to create melanin.
Studies have shown that products containing tyrosinase inhibitors have significantly faster skin lightening effects compared to other more commonly used ingredients. In one study of 80 participants, scientists compared the efficacy of these botanicals against hydroquinone (a synthetic form of tyrosinise inhibitor) for decreasing hyperpigmentation. They found that topical application increased skin lightness 60% over hydroquinone.
Age spots, are the most visible consequences of sun exposure. A three-month study revealed that more than 80% of participants who topically applied a formulation of tyrosinase inhibitors showed noticeable reductions in the process of age spots.
- Antioxidants
This amazing ingredient has extremely potent free radical scavenging activity! Studies have shown that oxidative stress has a big factor to play in the early production of tyrosinase.
- Niacinamide
One of my favourite and extremely versatile ingredient. This super ingredient supresses the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes on the surface of the skin by up to 68%. It blocks the build up of melanin in the epidermis that results to skin darkening.
- Protecting our skin from harmful UV rays
Sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30 on all exposed areas is mandatory everyday. You are exposed to UV rays even when you are indoors as the rays can still penetrate through glass windows.
To sum it up, hyperpigmentation is one of those skin conditions which can be quite challenging to treat and requires lots of patience and dedication. Not saying a more even skin tone can not be achieved, anything is possible with the right professional care!
If you have hyperpigmentation and would like some further advice on what home care and the many in salon treatments that are available to you, I would love to hear from you when I open again!